Wine in China? Yes, indeed. The tentacles of the Asian giant extend far and wide, reaching even into the world of winemaking. In addition to wealthy Chinese entrepreneurs acquiring prestigious wineries in France—particularly in Bordeaux and Burgundy—the quality of domestic wine production in China has grown significantly. The country has the second-largest vineyard area in the world after Spain, which makes sense given its size. However, sheer landmass is not synonymous with quality. Many Chinese producers attempt to replicate French wines, especially those from Bordeaux, which proves challenging since each wine region has its own unique terroir. Ultimately, terroir dictates the character of a wine, along with the winemaker’s interpretation. Once China finds its own distinct winemaking identity—just as the New World once did—it will gain the global recognition it seeks.
China’s wine regions are spread across the country, including Liaoning, Hebei, Shandong, Gansu, Beijing, Tianjin, Shanxi, Shaanxi, Xinjiang, Jilin, Ningxia Hui, Inner Mongolia, Yunnan, and Sichuan. Unsurprisingly, following Bordeaux’s influence, the dominant red grape varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, while Chardonnay, known for its adaptability, stands out among the whites, along with Riesling.
One of China’s most renowned wines, Ao Yun, is produced at the foot of the Himalayas, near the city of Shangri-La. Crafted by the luxury conglomerate Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH), this wine is made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. While Ao Yun is just one example, it illustrates how many of China’s top wines are backed by major corporate groups. However, this is only a matter of time. I am convinced that small independent winemakers will gradually emerge, giving new depth and dimension to China’s wine industry. And I don’t think we will have to wait long to see it happen.