wine washing

Wine washing

I imagine that the reader will have realised that for some time now we have been living under what is known as “social washing”. The term, coined as far back as the 1980s, is used to refer to a marketing system whereby companies try to make profits by washing their image. To do so, they take advantage of fashions, good ecological and/or food practices or movements that fight for different rights. However, their real intention is to increase their turnover rather than to defend ideals.

Thus we can find, for example, “greenwashing” when it comes to environmentally friendly products; “kwashing” strategies as LGBTI rights supporters; “pinkwashing”, regarding breast cancer; “rainbow washing”, products related to gay pride; vegan washing, food that complies with veganism; or, the most recent, “covid washing”. If we can pull the thread, we will see that there are a good number of different “washings”.

The world of wine is no stranger to these practices, so there is also wine washing. Some of the traditional large producers, which occupy the shelves of hypermarkets and supermarkets, are also aware that there is a niche market to be covered, so they have begun to develop lines of wines with organic, vegan or “orange wine” labels, with the intention of reaching the profile of this type of consumer. However, this is only a marketing tool to sell a larger number of bottles, as they are obviously not really interested in these philosophies. Proof of this is that they continue to produce millions of litres, which is difficult to reconcile with the search for the greatest possible naturalness of the wine and the reflection of its landscape. Ensuring these annual production runs, and increasing them every year, involves the use of chemical additives that guarantee disease-free vineyards and avoid problems in the winery, during vinification and ageing of the wines. This methodology is obviously contrary to the philosophy of terroir.

Without intending to be moralistic – perhaps I am – all this is nothing more than a reflection of the society in which we live, in whatever sphere. The important thing is the good image, posturing, looking good and making a profit from it all. The substance is the least important thing. It is not seen, nor is it interesting, nor does it generate money. That’s how we are doing.

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